Tall Tales from Kansas

walking the steps that St. Francis took 800 years ago

Saturday I fortified myself with a breakfast of eggs and wild asparagus and then headed out on a path for Monteluco with an Italian itinerary in my possession. 


I did my best to follow the trail markers provided by the Club Alpino Italiano. They are posted on rocks, trees, poles, etc... Once when I thought I was going to have to go back because I was not sure which way the trail went I backed up and re-looked from another perspective and found the marker.


I came upon old structures along the path. I wondered what they had been.


The views as I climbed continued to be amazing.




I really wanted to climb over this wall to look into the courtyard of this place. The only thing that stopped me was my inner voice of reason (I imagined Chris telling me it would not be a good idea).


I climbed and I climbed. Uphill all the way. I thought several times to turn back but kept thinking I was almost there. I am also reading The unlikely pilgrimage of Harold Frye right now. Harold wouldn't have stopped. I passed Italian bicyclists who inquired if I had crossed a road not far back, they told me Monteluco was only "5 minutes more".




This is what I came to see. The sacred woods. I was the only person up here. So peaceful and cool amongst the trees. I ran my hands over the ancient writing on these stones.

On my way down the mountain I met a man who asked if he was going the right way to get to Monteluco. I assured him he was. He thanked me and said "I keep thinking of how I am walking the steps that St. Francis took some 800 years ago", and off he went - continuing on his own pilgrimage.

montefalco and bravagna

Franco picked us up at 2pm sharp on Friday for a driving tour of the "green heart of Italy" aka Umbria. We wanted to visit Montefalco and Bravagna. He insisted we stop on the way out of town for "un café". This is an espresso sipped while standing at the bar right in front of the barista.

The glimpses of the fields seen through the twisting passageways made us point and stare.

What you can not see in this post is that as we passed into each small hamlet (or whatever the Italian word is for small community) Franco would tell us what the name was. We would slowly repeat it in our best Italian accents and Franco would smile and say Brava! Brava Marianna! And on we would go slowly through the winding roads of this beautiful green countryside. Imprinting deeply in our memory banks this time. Oh and by the way, those paintings and photographs you see of fields of red poppies from Umbria? True. Breathtakingly true.

Supper was made at home. Wine, pasta, fresh tomatoes, greens, cheese, all purchased on our travels today.

uova y asparagi

Friday, April 26th, 12:02 pm. 1 Loc. Monteluco. Overcast. Slight chill in the air. Glad I brought this turtleneck my sister was sure I wouldn't wear.

As I was walking around taking pictures Franco came down from the hill above our house where he had been working. He brought us presents.

Eggs and wild asparagus should make a perfect supper tonight.

we told him we have cats instead of bambinos

I do not know why this first photo looks smaller than the others. Trying to configure photos and the proper font from the iPad is a bit of a challenge. No matter. The story remains the same. In your mind please imagine that all these pictures are square and perfect.

Yesterday I tried the tortellini with truffles for lunch. It was almost as good as the risotto with truffles. Photos of that when I get home. One of my favorite things after a meal in Italy is the teeny cup of espresso. Such a civilized way to end a meal.

We did end up going back into the pottery shop. We met Chiara Bonini there. She paints this beautiful pottery. Items were selected. Bartering was done. Packages will be shipped. I am NOT a shopper, but I did regret not getting a piece of this pottery when I was on the Amalfi coast. That situation has been rectified.

We do not grow tired of the views on the walk to and from town.

Tonight we sat up a table in a slightly different spot to catch the last of the sun as it went down over Spoleto.

The sketching and knitting continues. Tomorrow morning Franco comes to pick us up for a tour of the area. Today he learned that we are sisters. We learned that he has 2 kids. We told him we have cats instead of bambinos.

we are holding our collective breath

Wednesday dawned bright and sunny. I gathered firewood early while Mary Ann made us poached eggs. I like gathering firewood in a wheelbarrow. I think I could do this every morning of my life without complaint.

After breakfast we made a list of items needed at Alimentari Gennari Emilio on Piazza del Mercato, I told sister if she did a sketch in my journal I would hoof it into town. She agreed, so off I went.

Had I been at home I would have purchased flowers from this woman. I liked her truck.

I was able to successfully get uova, panne, pollo, prosciutto, biscotti, vino rosa, Nutella and directions to an Ortofrutta. I felt very successful navigating my way to Liberti Ersilio where I purchased several mele, pere, banane, and arance. The absolute best part of my day though was meeting him.

When I asked if I could take his picture he smiled, took off his cap, brushed his hair to the side with his hand, and waited patiently while I fiddled with the iPad.

I had to take a few breaks on the way home with my bag, but why not when the view is so pretty.
In addition to getting provisions I spied a pottery shop to go back to AND the way to get to Chiesa di S. Eufemia.

When I got home it was time to sit and knit. I can not over emphasize the restorative benefits of sitting and staring at a view while you knit. I was imagining all my knitting pals sitting around the table under the wisteria with me.

We had sandwiches and apples for lunch and then headed out into the woods around our house. In the guest book there is mention made of wild boar's spotted along the path. We have our fingers crossed for a glimpse while we are here.

Alas we saw only one decomposing porcupine today in the woods. But there are 4 more nights left here. Dinner at home tonight.

I have no idea what we are doing tomorrow yet. Franco may be taking us on a drive. We are holding our collective breath and crossing our fingers that he can work it into his schedule.

there might have been a cat or two involved

Today was all about secret passages and windows and breathtaking views and 5 course meals at 1:30 in the afternoon that lasted for 2 hours.

And there might also have been a cat or two involved.

he was wearing an orange sweater vest

> Scenes from around the house and the walk into town yesterday.

> As we come down from our house and around the curve this is the first glimpse we have of the Ponte delle Torri and Rocca Albornoziana.
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> In addition to the wisteria we have some giant pots of red geraniums outside the front door of our house.
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> Today Franco came by to do some tending in the garden. He speaks as much English as we do Italian. We get by with lots of smiles and hand motions. He was wearing an orange sweater vest. He is going to bring us eggs tomorrow and some of the wine he makes.
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> We discovered tonight that the reason this place is called the "Artists Tower" is because Sol LeWitt lived here in the 1980's. His artwork is all over the house and that's a true story about which I will tell you more later.

Wednesday is not at all out of the question

I don't want to do one entire post on the sublime deliciousness that is this truffle infused risotto at Taverna de Duchi. But really I must. It commands it.

It looks so plain, so simple, so ordinary, but in fact it is very complex and will be forever imprinted on my mind as the taste of Spoleto. I told Mary Ann not to let me come here again tomorrow because that would just be embarrassing. Wednesday however is not at all out of the question.

big plans for another long hike tomorrow

Plan to see this regularly. It's the panoramic view out the front windows and its beauty can not be overstated.

The path into town is right below that flowering pear tree. Once we got there we found many interesting passageways that demanded our attention.

We found what looked to be a pretty good spot for lunch on Corso Mazzini. A meal which included
fresh mozzarella and tomatoes the likes of which I have not had since the last time we were in Italy.
Equally as good as the food was our lunch mate across the way. He kept up a lively conversation with an unseen companion that included serenading and joke telling.

> I got a little, teeny bit lost on the way back home after our trip into town. Just to set the record straight I can not take total responsibility for the missteps. Anyone who has ever hiked with me knows I have no sense of direction. It's a really good thing we had a robust lunch to provide the fuel to go up about a mile of steep switchbacks before realizing we had missed the turn to our house somewhere.
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Fortunately we finally realized the error of our ways, turned around, and found our way back to Wisteria Lane - aka - the artists tower in the woods we are calling home.

We topped off the day with some sketching and made big plans for another long hike tomorrow.
The hot tub should be fixed by then. We are told. We might need it. If we get lost again. Which is highly unlikely.

I shall endeavor to persevere

Sunday morning in Umbria. It was all I could do not to break into "all creatures of our God and King, lift up your voice and with us sing".... I restrained myself. Today. Tomorrow may be different. The Duomo inspires deep rich melodic tones in me.

The third thing on the agenda this morning was cappuccino and sketching.

The second thing on the agenda was opening all the windows this morning so we could SEE the wisteria that we walked under last night. Right outside the front door, it's delightful. That table out there is where we will be working in our sketchbooks this afternoon.

This is the view from the living room in our house. It makes me very happy. Even if the hot tub that we are supposed to be sitting in is not working... yet.

As you can see, we arrived safely in Umbria, despite having almost left my wallet in the car at the airport (the shuttle driver went back but he was NOT happy about it), and Mary Ann running smack dab into a carabinieri with a big gun in the Tibertina train station. All's well that ends well right?

No WiFi at the house yet. The fix has been ordered but not sure when it will arrive. Posts may be sporadic. I shall endeavor to persevere.

once she remembered how fun that was, she relented

Off for Italy.  I will be doing my best to provide an accurate and true portrayal of the Moss sisters on vacation.    First item of business will be to report if the photos from the world wide web are actually what Umbria really looks like.

Other important items of business include exploring the medevial hill towns this area is famous for.  We have rented donkeys for an unusual tour of one town that can only be reached by this mode of transport.   Mary Ann was skepical about this until I reminded her of the Boca do Inferno experience in Portugal.  Once she remembered how much fun that was, she relented. 

the copper stars

More great historical fiction - one of you told me about this.  If only I could remember who.  Thank you.  It is a great listen.  The language is so interesting and the dialogue is beautiful even if a bit hard to follow at times because you are not completely sure of the meaning of some phrases.   It will keep you on your toes. 

I didn't realize it was about the beginning of the New York Police department in 1845,  and I have not idea how accurate it is.  That was not important to me.  It's a great story on several levels with a large cast of characters you want to know about.   I finished it just in time to return it to the library before I leave for Italy tomorrow. 

Now it's time to pack.  But first I need to show you what is happening in my pots on the back deck.

Chris has strict instructions to photograph these while I am gone since by the time I get back they will likely be past their prime.  This is a new experiment and I need to be able to judge any changes that will be required in the planting scheme for next year.   For that I need pictures.  Lots of pictures. 

a tool for winding a "cake" of yarn

This is going to become the next square in my lizard ridge afghan.  It will be created midway over the ocean enroute from Detroit to Paris. 

That wooden stick thing you see alongside the yarn is a Nostepinne.  It's a tool for winding a "cake" of yarn that pulls from the center instead of a ball that you pull from the outside; which tend to roll all over the place while you are trying to knit from them. 

As you can see below I am far from practiced at using it and my "cakes" of yarn do not come anywhere close to these that were wound using a swift and a mechanical ball winder.   I was  sold on trying one after reading somewhere how these were hand carved in Scandanavia by young men for their sweethearts who were knitters.    

Who wouldn't want to try one after reading that?   I am going to practice until I am really good so when my sister and I are in our 70's and we take that Hurtigruten ship all up and down the Norwegian coastline,  I will be able to join in the cake winding competition with all my Scandanavian sisters.   

she promised to read another story tonight so she can tell us about it tomorrow

Sister and I took Angie out to dinner tonight at Urban Table.   The siren call of the Polenta fries could not be ignored.    Besides,  Angie was too tired to cook anything after having to pose all day while Mary Ann sketched.  Being a model is hard work. 

While we ate Mary Ann regaled us with the story of Oswald T. Campbell and his adventures in Lost River, Alabama.  She read the readers digest condensed version of A Redbird Christmas last night and wanted to tell us the tale.  Angie and I were hanging on every word.  The people at the next table even interrupted once and asked her to repeat something.   Sister knows how to hold an audience captive.   She promised to read another story tonight so she can tell us about it tomorrow.    We told her she better because no story = no dinner. 

no reason to try and figure things out ahead of time

My sister arrived in the wee hours of the morning last night.  She is spending some time with Angie before we head off for Spoleto.  This morning we tumbled out of bed, I made coffee, and she showed me the signatures that she would be sketching in while there.  

Confoundit!  Why do I always wait until the last minute to try and put something together?   I pulled out some stuff that could, possibly, maybe.... work for a journal for Spoleto.

No.  No.  No.  and No.  None of these felt right.  Then I found this little book (Just under 6x6) I made years ago in a class and have never done anything with.  It's always been a little too fussy for my taste.  One of those things where you have to pick paper in a class and create on demand.

Nothing a little alteration won't fix.   I pulled out the sewing maching and some hot press paper and went to work.





It's starting to come together nicely, which just proves my point.  There is no reason to try and figure things out ahead of time, when the last minute will do. 

the picture takers friend

Since we did not get the hail that was forecast last week you will be forced, once again, to look at pictures of my flowering cherry tree.  BUT - these photos were taken at 8:08 am on a day that looked like it was going to be sunny and golden. 

I have extolled the virtues of evening light before.  The kind, golden, warmth of morning light is the picture takers friend as well. 

the children were just for looking at

Today was the first day of the farmers market in Lawrence. 

They had eggs, greens of all sorts, and of course cute children.  I brought home a big bag of spinach because I already have farm fresh eggs and the children were just for looking at. 

I found 2 ladybugs when I was washing the spinach, and released them.  Then I set about the business of making breakfast. 

This 100% delicious looking feast had been on my mind since I saw this.  It was every bit as good as it looks.  I don't know why it took me so long to discover the perfect pairing of eggs and greens, but now that I have it looks like we will be carrying on for a long time to come.   

Da quale binario parte il treno per Spoleto?

In preparation for my trip to Italy in exactly 7 days I accomplished the following this week:

1.  Ordered and picked up Euros from the bank
2.  Picked a knitting project to take on the plane
3.  Notified Visa and American Express I would be traveling
4.  Arranged for the use of my phone overseas
5.  Located my passport
6.  Committed one important Italian phrase to memory

Da quale binario parte il treno per Spoleto?  This is so when we arrive in Rome and head for the train station I will know how to ask which platform we go to for OUR train.  I don't want to catch someone else's train. 

The list of things I have not accomplished prior to my departure to Italy is longer than this list.  I decided it would be important to stick with the positive tonight.  The fact that I don't have a good photo of Spoleto easily at hand to show you tonight is a negative.  Luckily we are NOT focusing on that. 

once Lewis says it's quitting time

We have the annual cutting down of the grasses down to a fine art around here.  

I hold, Chris cuts, I put the dead stuff in the bag.  Meanwhile Lewis makes sure I have placed the spring door mat in just the right location on the front porch.  So he can watch and make sure we are not slacking off. 

The best part of the whole day is sitting on the front porch after the work is done.   Once Lewis says it's quitting time of course, not one minute before. 

you can have dessert after any meal of the day

Does anyone else still have easter ham that needs to be eaten?  I took a ham sandwich for lunch everday last week and I made ham and beans on Saturday.   Finally on Sunday I used the last of it with the Refrigerator Pie.  

This is pretty much like a quiche except it is really more about the filling and less about the eggs.   If you care more about filling, make this.  If you care more about the eggs, make quiche.  I threw the left-over asparagus in too.  Chris and I thought it was plenty worth eating.  We had hash browns on the side.  I might have had a half of a snickerdoodle cookie too.   At our house you can have dessert after any meal of the day. 

Recipe courtesy of Alton Brown is below:

what a difference 48 hours makes

Behold the weeping cherry on April 7, 2013 at 4:01 pm.

Behold same weeping cherry on April 9, 2013 at 6:19 pm.

What a difference 48 hours makes.   This flat, cold, gray, light is perfect for showing an intricate knit pattern but does absolutely nothing for a cherry tree.  Oh well.  It did not deter me from trying to capture the moment.  I like to take a photo every year so I will remember the fleeting beauty of the full bloom.   The bees were buzzing all over it tonight.  They must know a storm is coming and hail is likely.   Bees are smart that way. 

inspecting counts as a chore

The first gardening chores of spring should be fun.  If you start off by cleaning, trimming, weeding, and pulling you will get sore.  Best to begin slowly.  In keeping with that theory, I planted a pot of pansies Saturday.  

Then I inspected one of my pots of tulips out back.  Inspecting counts as a chore by the way.   I am shocked and delighted that these are doing so well.   

I have been informed that my six knock out roses in various spots in my garden have "witches broom".  Some kind of fungus in the soil that will affect another rose if I try and replace them.   I am going to have to do some reading about this.  In the meantime I can NOT be without roses to cut and bring in the house.  So... you guessed it.  Into a pot one went. 

If any of you master gardeners out there know anything about witches broom I would love to hear it.  Especially the part about what I can do to get rid of it. 

It made my knees weak

If you are looking for a different sort of dining experience in Kansas City, get yourself over to Port Fonda.    We had a Quail outing the other night and because we heard it was for the hippest of the hipsters we headed down to Westport to see what all the fuss was about. 

The guacamole was PERFECT.  Thick and chunky without a lot of sour cream or anything else.  It is served with chips or vegetables.  We got both.  You MUST get the vegetables - cucumber, radishes, jicama, sliced and served cold with a squeeze of lime and a sprinkle of spices.  A taste treat.  The chips were thick and crispy and looked like they were fried on the premises. 

I had the Shrimp Veracruzano.  Shrimp, peppers, onions, spinach, in a spicy sauce served with really excellent  soft, warm, corn tortillas.  After I got the eyes and legs off my plate my squeamishness calmed right down and I tucked into this dish with gusto. 

Jamie had to leave her sunglasses on for the first 90 minutes of our dining experience because she was facing the window.   She got a new lip gloss recently.  Nancy was smart enough to set with the window to her back and were therefore not in the least bit bothered by the sun. 

Getting dessert after eating mexican food is something I usually don't do.   Please do as I did if you come here.  You must try the Donas de Requeson.  A ricotta "doughnut" with a maple-mezcal tres leches poured on top.   It made my knees weak, in a very good sort of way. 

buds don't lie

At long last, spring has arrived.  

 




Weather people sometimes get confused by all that meteorological technology (doppler radar, plain old radar, satellites, dual polarization, etc).  I like to keep it simple.  When the buds arrive it's Spring.   Buds don't lie. 

satisfied and somewhat virtuous

Last week at knitting class there was talk about one of the newer restaurants in Lawrence.  Some gave it the thumbs up, some gave it the thumbs down, some gave it the sideways thumb with a wiggle.    I went to Loopy's this week because I want to be able to participate in the directional thumb conversation if it comes up again for discussion.  

We went for lunch at 11:45 in the middle of the week.  We walked right in and sat right down after being greeted by a friendly wait-person.  There's a clean urban feel to the place.  It's small but open, with tables close together.  Don't go there for secret, patent/copywright discussions you don't want overheard by others.  

I had the Loopy's Trio.  Mixed greens - everyone has mixed greens right?  Yes, many places have them, but few places dress them with just the right amount of a dijon vinagrette that doesn't overpower and wilt the greens.  The manchego cheese on top was salty and sharp.  I expected the steak and potato soup to be a creamy white potato concoction with bits of steak but instead it was a savory, tomato based, vegetable soup with steak and potatoes.  Slightly thick, completely delicious.  The bread on the side was an italian loaf, studded with sesame seeds, sliced and lightly toasted, with melted cheese and a roasted tomato on top.  All in all the perfect lunch and very reasonably priced.  We left feeling satisfied and somewhat virtuous for not having over-indulged.   

There were some interesting looking characters in the place.  One man had a great sense of style and I wanted to take a photo but he declined.  The staff told me he is asked regularly and always says "no".  I can respect that though I don't really understand it.  Unless he is on the lam.   I didn't think of that.  He's probably in hiding after having swindled millions from unsuspecting, innocent nursing home residents.  Hmmm I better start watching America's Most Wanted and see if they have him on there. 

he insisted he was being 100% truthful when I asked if he was pulling my leg

Many of you know that my sister is on a walking kick.   She is preparing herself for all the scampering around we will be doing in Italy in just a little over 2 weeks.

Not to be outdone, I arranged a walking tour of Old West Lawrence yesterday with my friend Mary Joan.   I told her anyone can see the beautiful houses, I wanted to give her an insiders tour.  

The guy working in the yard at this house informed us that it was the home of Dr. "Phog" Allen from around 1919 until 1940.   He insisted that he was being 100% truthful when I asked if he was pulling my leg.   

We zig zagged up and down all these streets taking care not to trip and fall on the cobblestone streets or the brick sidewalks as we talked about 17 different subjects at one time and kept each and every conversation straight.   One of the greatest pleasures in life are friends.

  
Thanks for driving over Mary Joan - next time I will take you to another neighborhood so I can show you more bricks, alleys, and trees with strange growths.

I had my hair sculpted by Edward Scissorhands

Just under the wire.  Week eleven of Sketchwars Wednesday completed. 

I had some hair trouble this week.  In my profile sketch it appears that I have had my hair sculpted by Edward Scissorhands.  I was going to show you but thought it might set you up for a really bad nightmare tonight.  I would not want that on my conscience.   

Angie re-thinks the cinammon dolce latte

Angie has never liked Starbucks.  Or so she claims.  When I get a drink there she says "let me have a little taste", then she takes a sip, wrinkles up her mouth,  gets this terrible expression on her face,  and tells me "it's too stong".  Last weekend though she took a sip of my cinammon dolce latte and her eyes got all sparkly and she said "mmmmm, that's good".  I guess it's possible her taste is changing?   That's what Dottie said anyway.    

When I asked her if she liked it as much as a carmel pretzel crunch from Sheridan's she said "it's even better".     I'm pretty sure she will change her mind come summer. 

Photo credit:  Dottie Moss

get out the perfect vase and cut and arrange

Sometimes you can't wait for your own flowers to bloom.  In these instances it is not only ok, it is recommended that you purchase store flowers.  Flower shop flowers, grocery store flowers, flowers from vendors on the street, or internet flowers.  Whatever you have to do to get some flowers.

And when you get home with them, you get out the perfect vase and cut and arrange and re-arrange, and stand back and look and smile.  I guess if you  were in the flower business you wouldn't find the cutting and arranging of flowers so soothing.   For me it is very therapeutic.